Author Archives: Marty Griffy

The Caesar Shuffle

Today we traced the rise and fall of the Roman empire. The “rise and fall” meant lots of walking up and down stairs.
But it was worth it. We saw the Colosseum. Wow! It was really very easy to visualize the action there: the gladiators, the crowds, the lions, the Christians. Truth is really stranger than fiction.
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Then we visited the Roman Forum. Fascinating! My favorite spot was the palace of the vestal virgins. If they didn’t make it through thirty years of abstinence, they were buried alive with a loaf of bread and a lamp. ?? Again, truth is stranger than fiction.
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The weather continues to be incredible! We’re told by the locals that this is unusual, that March is usually rainy. But we just had that first evening of rain and then sun ever since. As my sainted mother used to say, “bad start, good finish.” That’s been true so far for this trip…

It’s St. Patrick’s day so we’re heading out to the only Irish bar in the area, Mad Jacks. :):)

My Dogs are Barkin

Rome is gona be a lot of walking.  Its almost like we did the trip backwards.  We should have started in Rome when we were fresh and ready to do lots of walking.  Then finish in Nice where most of the trip was sitting and driving. 
Anyway we have 3 full days left in Rome and it looks like they are all gonna be walking days. 
Today we were at St Peters to see Pope Francis speak at noon.  It was a half hour walk and waiting for an hour to see him.

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We really couldn’t see him that well except on the jumbotron.  Also he spoke in Italian,  I guess they do that here, so we couldn’t understand him.  Otherwise it was great !!!. (If you look closely in the picture above you can see the pope in the window)

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The pic above is all the people leaving the square after the pope spoke.
It may not sound like it but I am really enjoying the trip. Rome is an incredible place. The amount of people all over the place is unbelievable and they are from all over the world…

We then came back to the apartment.  We ate calezone at a restaurant in the square outside oura apartment,  then we were off to see the coliseum.  We finally found the ticket line and got tickets so we can go tomorrow.  So it was back to the apartment to rest the feet and get ready for more walking tomorrow.  Everywhere you look here there are old buildings or ancient ruins.

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Rome we have Arrived …

What a Drive.  We were fine til about 10 minutes from our destination.  In that time We went down train tracks the wrong way and then went into a bus station the wrong way which was explictiedly noted by one bus driver using hand signals.  In the end we stopped and asked a policeman how to get to the car drop off sight.  He was very nice and really gave good directions … Sort of … We followed his directions and proceeded to get lost again.  Not sure how but we did locate the europcar drop location.  Dropped off the car and then caught a cab to Campo di Fiorra.  The drive with the taxi cab driver taught bunny that I really wasn’t that bad of a driver.  28 euros later we arrived at our destination.  We were early so we grabbed the table at a restaurant closest to the door of our place.  A bottle of Cianti and 3 bruschettes later Allen shows up to take us to our room.  What a view.  Here is a video of what’s happening right outside our window at 8 pm at night.  It is a spectacular view with lots happening in the square just below our apartment.
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That machine in the lower right hand corner is a street sweeper. We call it the italian zamboni.
Tomorrow its off to see the Pope.
Here we go on the last few days of Europe 2014 trip.

Another Day Another Hill Town

In our first trip to Europe in 2012 our trip was split up in three different segments.  This trip is also segmented.  The first part was the French Riveria.  Oh La La …. It was more about beauty and the french language and people.  Today ended the second part of this trip which was Florence and the hill towns.  More about history and ancient buildings, churches and art.  I am always amazed that we come all this way to see a gate structure built in 40 BC.  These people pass stuff like this every day on their way to work.  Our house on Hancock in Portland turns one hundred years old this year.  That’s nothing over here. 
The hill town structure was primarily for defense from other hill town communities.  With their high towers to see on coming mauraders and walls around each town.  There are many stories of different hill town communities attacking and conquering each other.  As you drive along you can see hill towns all over the place. Each one with there own fascinating structures and history. Here is one you probably can’t see from my driver side window.
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Today these hill towns are thriving on the tourism … The streets are lined with souvenir shops and leather goods (oh and a lot of gelato shops).  Yet the history art and stories are still there to see and imagine what those days were like. 
Today we were in Siena.  I think it has been my favorite hill town so far.  It was the biggest we have seen.  The streets were alive with shops and tourist yet the center square and duomo (church) were spectacular.  We ate at a resturant recommended by Rick Steve’s (of course).  Bunny walked in with the book in hand.  The waitor saw this and immediately began to tell us about how he met Rick and he was mentioned in the book.  Yes we had met the famous Amadao.  He asked where we were from.  When we told him Portland oregon and he got really excited and said he had been to Portland and loved it.  Of course first thing he !mentioned was Voo Doo donuts.  (I have to go there some day). He went on and on about how he had been to NY, wash DC, Philly, Boston … Yet his favorite town was Portland.  I found it a little ironic.  Here we were visiting his spectacular town while he is going on about our home town.  I have to get out and about more when we get back to Portland and see that wonderful town.  Amadao was wonderful … Very gragagrious (not sure what that means) …
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(Ben made it into the picture … Scott didn’t)
We finished a bottle of chianti and some good food and were off to see Siena.  We walked around and then sat in the square and had coffee and decided to get gelato and head back to the car.  Well we walked for 2 hours looking for the car.  “No its this way”. “No I think its this way” … Well we finally found our way and got back to the apartment.  The hill town portion of the trip is over.  Off to Rome….
We will be dropping off the car tomorrow in Rome as soon as we get there. I walked around the car when we got back and it looks like we have made it so far without putting a scratch on the rental car. It only had 900 miles or kilometers on it when we got it. Its a Dacia … Not sure who makes it. It drives really nice but we have had some close calls. The closest was yesterday. We were on the A1 coming back from San gingmanmo. A car was merging … I couldnt get over so I slowed down to let them in. They decided there wasn’t enough room so they stopped. I had slowed down to almost a stop to allow them to get on. So cars are wizzing by in the left lane luckily the large bus behind me was able to get over. I hit the gas and left that merging car stopped on the on ramp. I am not sure what the rules are in Italy for how to treat merging vehicles into a freeway. I did what I think I was suppose to do .. Slow down to let them in…
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Bunny wants to get a cat now. Not sure how were gonna get it on the plane …

One day, two lovely hill towns

Today we spent the day at two hill towns northwest of Siena (there are literally dozens of hill towns – the most difficult task is to narrow down the choices to just a manageable few).

So we chose to visit Volterra and San Gimignano (we finally learned to pronounce the name correctly – sorta – sahn jee-meen-YAH-noh. We had been referring to it as San Chimichanga 🙂 bad joke).

BUT before we left Montepulciano we took a picture of Lucca (who rented this great apartment to us) and Creased/Rumpled Benjamin. His friend Carlotta is on the far left. Lucca is soooo nice. 🙂
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On to Volterra which was made somewhat famous by the Twilight movies (New Moon was filmed in Volterra and Montepulciano). One of the gates to the city, the Etruscan Arch, was built in the fourth century BC. There is also a Roman amphitheater from 40 BC. Everything is soooo old here. We drove past what looked like a little walled castle on our way to Volterra – no sign or anything on it because (we’re thinking) it’s just another ancient building…
Anyway, we had another sloooow, delicious lunch and then strolled the city. Lovely.
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San Gimignano: We got into San Gimignano around 6 – the crowds were leaving (it’s quite touristy) but the lighting was perfect for pictures. It really is a beautiful town and probably best enjoyed during the gloaming, twilight hours. Just you and the towers (14 of the original 72 medieval columns remain), the churches (they’re everywhere! our theme), the cobblestone streets, the quiet…
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The Day in Montipulciano – Day 11

We got into Montipulciano at night and we have been coming and going while it was dark.  So it has been wonderful to wander around the town of Montipulciano.  There are at least 6 different churches in this relatively small town and we have seen just 2 of them.  The inside of them are spectacular. 

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We did lunch at a local cafe and met some very nice people from Toronto and Dallas tx. 

We spent the afternoon wine tasting at Cantina Contucci. We got to meet the famous Adamo. Mostly made famous via Rick Steve’s. You can watch Adamo oin the Rick Steve’s video on Montipulciano.
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While at the winery in the barrel room we had a very unusual site. A double Ben sighting … Oh My !!!
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Things To Remember from this Trip – Day 10

Its Tuesday evening and we need to recap and catch  a little on some of the memorable moments over the past 3 days.  Most of Sunday was spent in Assisi.  It is a hill town in the Umbria region of Italy.  The main focus of the town is the basilica (aka church) which focused on St Francis.  Francis was the son of the wealthy family in Assisi.  The family got their wealthy through making cloth and clothing.  Francis preferred the simple life and decided he did not want to live the wealthy life style of his family and demonstrated this by sheading his clothing in the town square and running naked through town and out into the country side where he was greeted by peasants who clothed him (for me this brought back some surpressed memories of high school)..  They gave him scratchy brown cloth to wear.  The scratchy brown cloth reminded Francis constantly what he had done and why he had given up the comfortable cloth for the scratchy brown cloth of the peasants.  That is why monks wear the brown robes that they do today.  Its these kind of stories which make traveling worth it.  The simple living life style has been around for awhile.
It was shortly after that when the day got a little weird.  Older men running around with big white ballons on their head.  Who thought that one up.  Some day we will find out why.
That evening was spent in monticilifino.  A hill town in the Tuscany region just 20 minutes from Montipulciano.  The restaurant was called LA Porta  It is called that because it is located right next to the huge doors which were the entry way into the town way back when.  I suspect the restaurant used to be the gate keeper house or cottage.  The restaurant was recommended to us by Lucca who we rented the apartment from in montipuliciano.  Well the meal was wonderful … The wine was flowing and the credit card took a big hit.  What a wonderful time. 
Monday – Day 9 began our time in Florence.  We got in to Florence a little late because of the late night before.  We spent the evening at the Duomo (church) and then found a restaurant recommended by rick Steve’s.  After another wonderful meal we got back to our flop room (in Florence) for the night and got a good night sleep.  The next day was spent at the Uffizi (art museum in Florence).  The saving grace was that I was able to listen to Rick Steve’s audio take me through the paintings and sculptures.  It made it more interesting and tolerable.  We ate some pizza at a sidewalk cafe and hit the road for home(montipulciano). 
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Tomorrow is going to be a catch up day for us.  Although we hate to just sit in the apartment … Sometimes you have to get a break from the gogo.  Also we have laundry to do. 
To sum up.  Italy is wonderful.  The history, people and the Gelato.

Assisi, great food and wine – and men with balloons on their heads???

Yesterday was a full day of all-things-italian – from traveling around tuscany and umbria taking in the hill towns and vineyards to visiting an amazing basilica  to having a “slow” Italian dinner in a tiny hill town with a view to die for. And then there were those  old guys with the big white  balloons on their heads…
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Here’s how the day went:

First we had a quick breakfast at Sax Wine Bar (no we did not have wine with breakfast although  that would not have been a problem for anyone)_. Then we headed out to the town of  Assisi, home to St. Francis. It was one of the places on our must-see -in-IItaly list. We toured the amazing Basilica of St. Francis. We learned a lot about St. Francis of Assisi while taking in this beautiful church = which actually has three churches on three levels. We were all impressed.

Then we walked around Assisi and ran into the most bizarre encounter of the trip yet.  A couple dozen older men all dressed in white with (we kid you not) big white balloons on their heads were walking down  the center of the street (small hill town street) They also had two or three white convertible cars with them and  a couple of loudspeaakers – over which  they played the themes to Star Wars and 2001: A Space odyssey. They eventually marched down the street in a sort of parade, saying something in Italian overr the speakers. We could not understand a thing but it was hilarious, truly. One of them held Flat (actually Creased Benjamin) up so we could snap a picture (see photo).All of thse guys were at least 65 or older and they all seemed to be having a good time. We’re just not sure if there was a point to the whole thing. If you find anything on the Internet that would explain this bizarre occurrence, let us know.

Next we decided to check out a little hilltown near Montepuclaino  (Lucca, whose flat we are renting, had recommendded it  and a restaurant there to us).  We arrived at Montichello around 5:30- and had some wine and bruschetta at La Porta (the restaurant). Dinner was not served until 7:30 so the very kind owner of the restaurant told us  to take a walk around town and then come back and we could have some more wine and appetizers and dinner would be just abvout ready. She didn’t want us to pay for what we’d just eaten/drank until later after dinner (Italians are sooo trusting_).. So we went for a leisurely walk around the beautiful town, met a couple of cats (cats seemed to be very popular in Italy) and wandered  back to the restaurant.We had a sumptuous meal, with more bruschetta, gnocchi, ravioli, citi, white beans and heavenly Fiorentina steak -and, of course, much wine. 🙂

It was a great day…
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We have arrived in Montipulciano

Saturday … Day 7
We have left France and have arrived in Montipulciano, Italy.  We left Villefranche at 10:30 this morning and stopped in Pisa at 4:30.  Then we arrived in Montipulciano at 7:30.  Lucca met us and lead us to the apartment where we will be hanging out of for the next week.  Lucca is a very colorful character who speaks broken English and very passionate about this part of Italy.  We spent an hour going over places to see and where to eat and drink in the area.  It was dark when we arrived so I am looking forward to seeing the city in the day light.
Our last day in France was spent going to two cities.  Saint-Tropez and Cap Ferrat. Both are on the coast and both are beautiful … But neither really had a lot of history to them.  While they were old towns, I like the old castles and ancient ruins.  Those two cities just didn’t have that kind of history.  Our original destination was Aryie, they have an old colusem,  but it was to far and it was getting late. 

Our big event today was running across Griffy’s Bar Pizza and Beer joint in Pisa.  We couldn’t believe it.  Because of the language barrier we couldn’t figure out who it was named after.  We had coffee and sandwiches before leaving.
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Ben had a chance to stop and look out over Villefranche on our way out of town. Unfortunately Ben was not able to make the trip to see the leaning tower of pizza.
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